Basic Pattern Grading Guides

Amongst the tutorials provided on the site you'll find a guide to pattern grading. That guide is based on you knowing the individual measurements and where to put them on the pattern. Only a basic shaped pattern is covered, and the example measurements are provided in metric.

For a simpler understanding, but with a larger choice of styles, the diagrams here will show you how to grade you pattern. These diagrams can be used for the slash and spread method of pattern grading or pattern shifting, the areas of growth are shown on each diagram. They can be used for grading any pattern whether it be home made or commercial.

The basic size grade is 1 size up, but the process can be repeated many times, up or down, or you can multiply the number to get more than one size e.g. from size 12 to size 18 you'd times the number by 3.

The examples provided for women's measurements are a 2" grade (5cm). Front pattern pieces are provided only, use the same details for grading the back pattern pieces.

A note on men's pattern grading: If you would like to grade men's patterns you can use the charts below as a guide, presuming the grade size is also 2" (5cm). The only difference is the length grade, where the length grade is 1/8" for women, replace with with 1/16" for men. Like wise 1/4" length grade for women needs to change to 1/8" for men.

The charts below are designed as a guide only, and are not the definitive answer to pattern grading. For more in-depth and accurate pattern grading instruction please refer to a good text book.

A conversion chart is here for those who work in decimals or metric.

Basic Bodice

  

A basic front bodice pattern. Note there are no darts other than a front waist dart. The dart should increase in length but not in width.

The back of the bodice is graded in the same manner as the front.
These are the most basic of pattern blocks, which show where the bodice growth should take place. All other bodice styles should follow these growth areas, when you are grading a complex design, try to picture what the design looks like in it's original block form to gauge where the growth should be.

NB. The neck grade shown here and on the rest of the diagrams is width only. If you wish to grade the neck in length as well by any additional amount, make sure the same grade is applied to the collar, to ensure the collar fits the neck once the grade is complete.
   

Basic Fitted Sleeve

  

The basic fitted sleeve grade is only graded 1/4" at the wrist. The elbow dart is not graded, and the length is added above and below the dart. The sleeve cap has the same total amount of additional size added as the total arm hole on the bodice.
   

Basic Skirt

  

When grading the skirt the darts do not change size. The overall grade should be 1/2" on each side of the pattern. When there are multiple darts divide the grade to either side of the darts, making sure the total adds up to 1/2" again once finished.
   

Basic Trousers

  

When darts are present at the waist divide the 1/2" grade for trousers to either side of the darts, or use the waist distribution as above for the skirt.

The hem of the trousers also follows the waist grade. This is suitable for straight trousers or flared trousers only as the increase in size would be too large for tight trousers. When grading for tapered trousers or slim/skinny fit trousers use 3/16" as the hem grade at the ankle.

For shorts use the 1/2" grade.

 
Design Variations:  
The above grading diagrams are for very basic blocks, however the same principles apply to all other designs and styles. Below are some design variations for common pattern configurations based on the grade diagrams above.
 
Sleeve Design Variations:  
 

Short Sleeve

 The short sleeve has the same grade at the sleeve cap as the basic fitted sleeve, however there is a 1/2" total grade at the hem.

There is also no length grade around the bicep. If the design needs the additional length then add 1/8" per size only.
   

Shirt Sleeve/Straight Sleeve

The shirt sleeve is graded in width 1/2" at the top and at the wrist. However, the cuff that adjoins the sleeve is only graded 1/4".

The straight sleeve without a cuff is also graded 1/2" in width.
   

Bishop Sleeve/Bell Sleeve

The bishop sleeve is another variation of the straight sleeve, you can see the same grade areas apply as the straight sleeve above. The cuff will always grade 1/4" between sizes.

You can apply these grade areas/figures to any sleeve that may have started life as a straight sleeve i.e. no fitted areas at the lower part of the arm e.g. bell sleeve, bat wing/angle sleeve etc
   

Two Piece Sleeve

The two piece sleeve is most often seen on tailored jackets. It is very simple to grade, if you look carefully you'll see it is the same as the basic fitted sleeve, only the under part of the sleeve has been separated from the top.
   
Bodice and Sleeve Combinations:  
 

Kimono Sleeve

The kimono grade is very straight forward but can be a little confusing as the sleeve and the bodice are joined. If you compare it to the basic bodice grade you can see the similarities, the figures will still add up to 1/2" grade across the front bodice. The 1/4" height grade is made in one go at the top of the bodice, this continues along to the cuff of the sleeve.

 
   

Raglan Sleeve - Dartless

The dartless raglan sleeve has no dart at the top of the shoulder, most often seen in sportswear or easy fitting garments.

It is very important that the top of the sleeve grade areas match those of the of the bodice area.

Note the sleeve wrist area is 1/4" grade, if the sleeve is straight this becomes 1/2".
   

Raglan Two Piece or Darted

The two piece or darted raglan is essentially the same as the dartless raglan. The sleeve armhole area needs to match the bodice armhole area.

Here only one side of the sleeve has been shown, for a top dart mirror image the sleeve and join down the middle. The dart will be above the 1/8" length growth at the arm hole.

For a long sleeve remember the grade should be 1/4" in length, see the raglan sleeve above for the length grade.
   

Dolman Sleeve/Square Arm Hole

The dolman is usually a very deep armhole, in this example it's also square. Note that the same rules apply for the arm hole here as they did for the raglan, the sleeve head needs to match the growth of the arm hole.
   

Drop Shoulder Bodice and Sleeve

The drop shoulder bodice takes the top part of the sleeve and attaches it to the bodice, therefore the grading follows that of the normal sleeve and bodice grades. Note the sleeve here is a short one, for a long sleeve grade as a fitted or straight sleeve.
   
Bodice Variations:  
   

Princess Bodice - shoulder

The princess bodice follows the same grading method as the basic bodice, the only difference is as the pieces are divided the grade measurements are divided too. Note the shoulder grade measurements are divided equally to either side of the split, you'd also do this for a basic bodice with a should dart, divide the shoulder grade to either side of the shoulder dart.
   

 Princess Bodice - armhole

The princess armhole bodice is the same as the basic bodice apart from where there side pieces are detached from the main bodice piece. Where this happens the grade follows along to that piece to keep the correct amount of 1/2" grade in the relevant places.
   

Hip Length - side bust dart

This hip length bodice is also graded like the basic bodice, there is no need to grade the length below the waist unless the pattern extends below the hip, in which case it should be treated as a skirt for grading length. The side bust dart does not increase the full 1/4" but only 1/8" to retain the correct proportions of bust suppression.
   

Bodice with Yoke

The grade for a bodice with a yoke is the same as that of the basic bodice, where the yoke splits from the main pattern the grade measurements are continued on to the other piece.
   

Bodice with Midriff

The bodice with a midriff is the same as the bodice with yoke, the grade follows from one piece to the next where the pattern splits.
   
Skirt Variations:  
   

Circle Skirt

The circle shown here is for a whole circle i.e. there are 4 pattern pieces to make the whole skirt. If you are grading for a 1/2 circle skirt or 1/4 circle skirt you'll need to divide the waist grade down further to the relevant size. e.g. 1/2 circle skirt the waist grade is 1/8" and 1/8" at the waist. The length grade does not change.
   
Other Variations:  
   

Collar

When grading any collar you need to ensure it matches the grade of the neck. In this example only 1/8" was graded at the back and front, of you grade any extra then make sure this is applied to the collar in the same way.
   

Bodice with Shawl Collar

The shawl collar is grown on to the bodice, and there for is treated as a bodice at the front and collar at the back. Make sure that the grade on the collar at the back matches the neck grade of the back bodice piece.
   

Cape

The grade for a cape pattern is the same as the basic bodice, with the arm hole details ommitted.